News – EN – Fashion week 2021: Hollywood by Moschino

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A bang at Milan fashion week! At Moschino, Jeremy Scott taps into the Hollywood repertoire to deliver a playful and glamorous collection

Paris fashion week starts this Monday March 1stWhile fashion virtually buckles up to leave Milan after today’s Valentino show, the Moschino fall-winter 2021-2022 show is the last memory to keep from this edition.For the Italian brand, designer Jérémy Scott offered us an immersion in a cinematic atmosphere tinged with nostalgia and humor. Resuming the setup of a fashion show in a tailoring salon, the mischievous designer offered us his interpretation of the 1939 film Women by George Cukor. On the program, a good dose of glamor with potato sack sets (a nod to Marilyn Monroe), a meadow dress with cows but of course also dreamy red carpet dresses.

Rich in major events, Milan Fashion Week brought fashion back to life at the end of February 2021 Kim Jones’ long-awaited debut at the helm of ready-to-wear at Fendi has lived up to expectations After an Haute Couture collection worn by a dizzying cast of stars, the new artistic director delivered a variation around fur and warm tones of sand and caramel, all in textures and with a sought-after urban allure, aware of his femininity. Max Mara followed suit with an anniversary collection (70 years) full of accuracy and glamorous cuts, in the same shades that have made the house famous. Barely time to turn around when it’s the new favorite Milanese fashion duo to come into play Miuccia Prada, now accompanied by Raf Simons, explores contrasts for autumn-winter 2021-2022, by opposing rigidity and sobriety on one side, flexibility and fantasy on the other, in silhouettes rich in overlays But also in a surreal decor composed of faux fur on the floor, marble on the wall or vice versa
The continuation of the Milanese festivities announces Armani, Ferragamo or Pucci

While the health situation still does not allow the holding of a fashion week in due form, fashion is getting organized and showing flexibility to provide a setting for designers and their fall-winter 2021- collections. 2022

The English capital in full confinement has bet on a digital London Fashion Week Victoria Beckham, in free spirit, presented her “Optimist but realistic” collection from the second weekend of February Among the pundits of this British week who have recently become unisex, Burberry has lifted the veil on its men’s collection, while Vivienne Westwood has bet on diversity to reveal a line 90% composed of materials with reduced environmental impactVia its official digital platform LFW Digital Hub, London fashion week gives way to its young shoots but also its essential designers such as Erdem, Simone Rocha whose collab ‘with H&M or even Marques’Almeida are expected.

More and more discreet, New York Fashion Week tries to reinvent itself despite everythingWith this in mind, Tom Ford, head of the CFDA has renamed the program “American Collection Calendar” affirming its flexibility with regard to formats such as dates of presentation.In this context, Jason Wu gave a physical show on February 14, while Rebecca Minkoff completed her show with an online platform where you can watch the looks in 360 ° on Yahoo Marc Jacobs was once again the big absentee from the US edition of the fashion week

Scheduled for the end of fashion month, Paris fashion week waited until February 15 to unveil a first official calendarHowever, shows and presentations will only be confirmed upon publication of the final version.

This is the most popular fashion event Paris Fashion Week always comes at the end of the “fashion month”, after that of New York, London and Milan and is by far the most extensive in catwalks.Less “underground” than that of London and even richer than that of Milan and New York, its fame makes it the Holy Grail for most creators in the world. Large foreign houses like Valentino (Italy), Dries Van Noten (Belgium), Stella McCartney (England) also prefer Paris to their capital of origin to parade. Consequently, it concentrates a maximum of stars, muses and events on the fringes where to cross them

Trademark, Paris Fashion Week refers to all the parades that take place in Paris twice a year for women and twice for men It can also commonly refer to the week of haute couture fashion shows, but this is a misnomer. From an organizational point of view, the Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion oversees it and facilitates relations between its various actors (buyers, photographers, journalists and designers) It also publishes the official parade calendar, assigning a place to each show.

Women’s fashion week is the event that punctuates the fashion industry twice a year In February and September, the big brands unveil their ready-to-wear collection: clothes and accessories produced in series and not made to measure, intended to be sold in the various points of sale.At the end of winter, the collections for the following fall-winter are thus presented, while the spring-summer collections parade at the end of summer, almost a year in advance.

While more and more big cities are organizing their own fashion week (Tokyo, Seoul, Istanbul, Sao Paulo), this one travels historically from New York to Paris via London then Milan, stopping for about a week in each of these four great fashion capitals

Each house is then free to present its parade in the city of its choice, even if tradition dictates that the houses parade in the (fashion) capital of their country (Chanel in Paris, Prada in Milan, Burberry in London, Zac Posen in New York) The houses invite their best clients, buyers, influential figures, stars and the press to relay the event.

During the two annual haute couture meetings organized in Paris, some thirty fashion houses showcase their exceptional creations which testify to genuine craftsmanship and contribute to their international influence. The collections presented there serve as a showcase for the houses: they will not be produced in large numbers, but made to measure for customers who request them. Each piece is therefore unique, corresponding to the desires (colors, details, length) client As the proposed silhouettes do not require production time, unlike ready-to-wear, they are presented just before each season, in January for the spring-summer collections and the other in July for the fall-winter collections.

“Haute couture”, created in Paris by the couturier Charles Frederique Worth in 1858, is a legally protected designation, granted by a commission sitting at the Ministry of Industry It is a French denomination, granted each year to houses of all nationalities which meet a certain number of precise criteria (such as handmade clothing, for example) and adhere to the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, which finds its origins in the 19th century The “members”, “corresponding members” and “invited members” appear on the official calendar.

The Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture is part of a larger group called the Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion The latter’s mission is in particular to support emerging brands, perpetuate houses already established, protect intellectual property and establish the calendar of collections presented in Paris.

Nevertheless, the use of the term haute couture is today overused: few houses can claim the denomination and many are those to scroll on the sidelines of the official calendar They therefore use the term couture to designate their tailor-made and handmade collections.

The cruise collections, called cruise in English or even resort or pre-spring, are mid-season ready-to-wear collections that introduce spring-summer Designed by Coco Chanel to dress her clients traveling to warm regions in winter, they make the transition between winter and spring. Today, they offer creations that are not quite winter nor quite summer which often constitute the extension of the ready-to-wear collections unveiled during Fashion Week. If the idea of ​​a cruise collection has already been exploited by major houses such as Christian Dior, Chanel, Saint Laurent or Louis Vuitton for several years, these pre-collections are now experiencing a real craze and are multiplying.

And while the cruise collections were most of the time unveiled in photos or during presentations, they are now taking the catwalks, an opportunity for fashion houses to strengthen their image and create a stir by coming out of the formal framework of fashion week or haute couture week, by choosing an original destination Dubai, New York, Seoul or Palm Springs, the houses take us to the four corners of the world to arouse enthusiasm A flourishing business for fashion houses, which generate a significant portion of their turnover with cruise collections

While cruise collections introduce spring, pre-fall collections make the transition between summer and fall Less staged than their counterparts, the pre-fall collections are most often only photographed to present the clothes.

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Chanel is one of the exceptions in this area since its Métiers d’Art collections – which pay tribute to the eleven craft workshops acquired by the house since 1985 and which parade once a year in December – act as collections pre-fall Since 2002, the house has traveled the world and unveils its Métiers d’Art collections in cities inspired by the life of Coco Chanel Real events in the fashion world, these shows are also the subject of ultra-elaborate story-telling campaigns, such as that of Cara Delevingne and Pharrell Williams in the short film Réincarnation, on the sidelines of the Paris-Salzburg fashion show.

Summary

Fashion week calendar and dates
Paris Fashion Week
Definition of fashion week
Haute couture
Cruise parades
The pre-fall collections

Paris fashion week starts this Monday March 1st So

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Fashion week, Paris Fashion Week

News – EN – Fashion week 2021: Hollywood by Moschino
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Fashion week 2021: Hollywood by Moschino
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Source: https://www.journaldesfemmes.fr/mode/magazine-mode/1371237-fashion-week-moschino-hiver-2021-2022-jour-calendrier-defiles/